Week 3 on Kauai continues with beautiful weather – thank you Mike for coming to visit because you clearly brought the good weather with you. I am planning on working Monday – Wednesday this week and then will take a couple of days off since we have the ultragliding on Thursday and want to do some snorkeling on Friday.
Mike keeps himself entertained while I work by finding the discount wine section at the local Big Save grocery store. He brings home 4 bottles of $5 Sebastiani Chardonnay – and is eager to go back for more. I wrap up the day on Monday around 2 and we decide to go on the Kuilau Ridge Trail hike, a relatively short, 2 hour hike. The hike is fantastic – lush, green, spectacular views and all that you can hear are the birds chirping and the wind rustling through the trees. This is why I love this island so much – it brings a natural peace to you.
 
Steve, our ultragliding pilot calls on Monday, and indicates that once again the weather is not looking good as the winds are expected to pick up on Thursday through the weekend. We re-schedule for Wednesday morning as the winds are expected to be perfectly calm. I appreciate the diligence the pilot is following to ensure a safe flight for us.
Tuesday I am working and Mike is entertaining himself at the library (after having already run back to Big Save for more Sebastiani wine). I receive a text message from my friend Chris asking me if I heard about the ultraglider crash. Immediately I look on-line and am stunned to see that the ultraglider that Mike and I were to fly on the very next day had crashed – and sadly both Steve, the pilot, and his passenger died. Words cannot adequately convey the range of emotions – sadness, relief, guilt, appreciation are just a few. I text Mike, asking him to come back to the house immediately. It’s one thing to know that I could have died, but the thought of putting a friend’s life at risk is almost too much for me to handle. Thankfully when Mike returns to the house and I explain what happened, he manages to keep a sense of humor about this. I realize to some of you reading this, that may seem inappropriate, but to know Mike, to know what he has been through in the last couple of years, and to see the stress on my face as I am conveying all of this to him, is to appreciate his ability to maintain a good perspective on the situation. Our hearts do go out to Steve’s wife, who lost her husband and her business as it was a husband and wife operation, as well as the family and loved ones of the passenger.
So in lieu of going to bed very early Tuesday night to get up for our very early morning ultra-gliding flight, Mike and I stay up and consume a couple of bottles of the Sebastiani in celebration of life.
I decide to go ahead and take Wednesday off (or at least part of the day) as I am still shaken by the events and would like some time for reflection. Mike and I decide to head to Tunnels Beach on the north shore. As we are driving through Hanalei, purely by coincidence, we come upon the recovered wreckage of the hang-glider we would have been on that morning. They had just helicoptered it in from the ocean so that it could be transported to the FAA for inspection. They had police around trying to prevent people from taking pictures. We explained to one of the cops that we were supposed to be on that very hang-glider that morning – you should have seen the look on his face upon hearing that. ’Stick to the helicopters’ was his only reply. It was clear from what we saw that there was no chance that anyone would have survived that crash.
Tunnels Beach is known for great snorkeling so we put on the snorkel gear and head out. The coral reefs are amazing – filled with a variety of fish. Turtles and monk seals are also known to hang out there – but unfortunately on this day, we just see a lot of fish. Still – it’s a great day to be alive!
We get back to Kapa’a in time for the Wednesday farmer’s market. Mike explores all the various fruits and vegetables and we pick up some apple bananas and pineapple to bring home.
Thursday we decide to head back up to the North Shore and explore Secrets Beach. After hiking down a very steep trail that made us question whether we were really on the right trail, we came upon the beach. The amazing thing with this beach is to the right of the trail is a beautiful secluded, sandy beach, while to the left are amazing lava tide pools. We decide to explore the tide pools and spend the next two hours exploring. The scenery is breath-taking, the breeze from the ocean keeps the temperatures comfortable, and we have an amazing time. It is good to be alive!
Thursday evening we head down to Poipu to Beach’s Restaurant to meet friends Mary, Candace, Nina, and Shelly for dinner as they are on the island this week vacationing. We see a spectacular sunset and eat a delicious meal. The perfect end to another perfect day in Kauai!
Friday is a full day. We do another hike – Sleeping Giant – which includes 1,000 foot elevation gain. The effort is worth it though as you get an almost 360 degree view of the island at the top. We then return home, get cleaned up, rest a bit, and then head down to Hanapepe with Chris and Laura for the Hanapepe Friday night art walk. Daniel and Jenni meet us there and we have a great time exploring the shops and festivities, swaying on the swinging bridge, learning good photo tips from Jenni and trying various Hawaiian delicacies including li hing mui – a salty dried plum, which has a sweet, salty, bitter, sour taste all combined into one. The look on all of our faces as we each tried a piece was priceless. The Chinese crackers were a much bigger hit.
After the art walk, we head to the Tavern as it is karaoke night. We don’t actually intend on doing karaoke, but if you come to Kauai and are here on a Friday night, you have to experience karaoke night at the Tavern. I’m not sure if Mike has recovered from the experience yet. Not sure what is worse, the guy that is there EVERY Friday night to sing country western songs, the female groupie that he has, or the cheesy videos that play in the background. It is something to be experienced!
We then head to Rob’s Good Times Bar and Grill for a mango martini and some dancing. We all get out on the dance floor and show our moves, but I must admit that we all pale in ability to Daniel. I want to see him in a dance-off with Justin Timberlake – Daniel would win it without question.
On a side-note – men, be aware if you are sitting in a bar and your pants are so low that your butt-crack is showing, there are women out there that will not hesitate to walk by and drop an ice-cube down your crack. Yes, I witnessed this at Rob’s so just thought I should warn you fellas.
Saturday Mike and I have a leisurely day just hanging out at the house. We’ve been keeping a pretty busy schedule up until this point so decide to take it a little easy for a good portion of the day. But, having swapped out the convertible mustang for a Subaru Forrester (if you haven’t read my previous posts – I have about 6 different car rental reservations throughout my month stay so am constantly switching cars, which not only keeps me entertained, but apparently also the people that are renting me this house that live in the house in front of me), I decide that Mike and I need to drive out to Polihale Beach. Polihale Beach is as far west as you can drive on the island – and the last 4.5 miles are off-road and signs indicate that 4 wheel drive is required. Rental car companies will not cover any damage to rental cars, even if you have insurance, if you go on this road. But I figure, of all the cars I have had until this point, the Forrester is the best car to attempt this drive.
So we make the 1 1/2 drive to the beach, of which the last 45 minutes is the 4.5 mile drive on the unpaved road. Fortunately it has not rained for several days, so the road is dry, making it passable, albeit at a VERY slow pace. We get out to the beach around 5 and enjoy watching the sunset. I’m pleased to report we make it be back alive.
, I decide that Mike and I need to drive out to <a href= "Copy of DSC01522") Polihale Beach. Polihale Beach is as far west as you can drive on the island – and the last 4.5 miles are off-road and signs indicate that 4 wheel drive is required. Rental car companies will not cover any damage to rental cars, even if you have insurance, if you go on this road. But I figure, of all the cars I have had until this point, the Forrester is the best car to attempt this drive.
So we make the 1 1/2 drive to the beach, of which the last 45 minutes is the 4.5 mile drive on the unpaved road. Fortunately it has not rained for several days, so the road is dry, making it passable, albeit at a VERY slow pace. We get out to the beach around 5 and enjoy watching the sunset. I’m pleased to report we make it be back alive.
 
Week 2 of my month visit to Kauai and the rains do not let up. It’s not that it rains every moment of every day. But when it does rain, it rains hard, and long. Week 2 starts the way week 1 ended – with flood warnings and very wet conditions. The bonus though is that the waterfalls are plentiful throughout the island.
Because of the rains, I realize, I need a car. I don’t mind walking a mile to the grocery store in 80 degree sunny weather, but torrential downpours are a different story. So I book a rental car using a myriad of hertz points and United frequent flier miles that will result in me having about 7 different reservations throughout the month. I am convincing myself that I am saving money, but really the time it costs me to run back and forth to the airport to exchange cars every few days is hardly worth any money saved.
Monday Chris and I get together because we just need another delicious mango martini. We go back to Robb’s but unfortunately the bartender from Friday night is not working and the mango martini we receive is less than stellar. We send it back once – but even on the second attempt, it’s still a disappointment. So we head to Kalapaki’s Joes and try their mango margarita. Again, we are left a little disappointed.
Tuesday is just a typical day. More rain but I get outside for a bit during a break and catch a few rays. I do realize a few negatives to my location:
- Since I am located right behind several restaurants, food delivery trucks arrive daily around 4:00 a.m. The noise from the unloading is challenging, at best. My plans for dealing with my sleep issues may be severely compromised.
- The feral cats give the roosters a run for their money in terms of obnoxiousness. I’m a kitty person by nature but feral cats in heat are a totally different category. Seriously need some sleep….
Wednesday I head to Hanalei as Melanie, the massage therapist/couchsurfer, has invited me to dinner with her and some friends. We have a wonderful dinner at Bar Acuda – a tapas restaurant, considered one of the best on the island. We then head across the street to iTi wine bar where we enjoy a bottle (or two) of Malbec before heading next door to Tahiti Nui for more drinks and dancing. I run into Sam and Laura, the couchsurfers I ran into last Saturday – I swear I am not stalking them. I do love running into people after only being on the island for less than two weeks – makes me feel like a local.
I won’t get into the rest of the evening but will just say that the karma gods sent me a message loud and clear that I heard and will respect through the rest of my trip.
Thursday is a long, rough day, but my friend, Mike, arrives this evening so am looking forward to that. I pick up a convertible mustang for the week, because what better way for Mike to see the island than in a convertible.
Thankfully, Mike brings great weather with him so on Friday, we take a walk around Kapa’a and then head for the north shore to see the sites, including the Kilauea Lighthouse. It’s fun to see the island from someone else’s eyes – the non-stop ‘wow’ factor. We drive all the way up north to the end of the road where the Napali Coast begins. Words cannot capture the beauty of this island – it is truly magical. We then head to the pier in Hanalei to say goodbye to one my couchsurfer friends, Sam, who is leaving Kauai to head back to Germany for a while. There are certain people you meet that you instantly know have a deeply rich spirit and energy and Sam is definitely one of those people. I wish I would have had the chance to get to know him better – but I am hopeful that I will run into him again, as I did so often on this island.
 Hanalei Pier  Sam and Laura Saturday Mike and I are scheduled to do a power hang-gliding adventure at 7:30 a.m. but the owner Steve calls at 6:00 a.m. to say the flying conditions are not good so we re-schedule for the following Thursday. This is the one thing I have really been looking forward to doing. A 90 minute ultra-gliding tour of the island. I am thankful that the pilot seems so safety conscious and wants to ensure that the conditions are ideal for flying - so I don’t mind having to wait a few more days.
So instead of ultra-gliding, Chris, Mike, and I head to the Centennial Naval Aviation celebration at the Pacific Range Missile Facility on the west side of the island. The PRMF is rarely open to the public, so this is a unique opportunity to get on base and view the military jets and helicopters up close and personal. You literally can go into the planes and helicopters, sit in the pilot’s seat, and get educated by the service men and women that fly on these aircraft. This was a unexpected highlight of the trip and am so glad we had the chance to do this. And Darth Tater loved it as well – he’s been enjoying the tour of the island and has been a big hit with everyone that he has met.
 Me and Darth in a helicopter  Captain Darth After the PRMF tour, we take a drive through Waimea Canyon – the Grand Canyon of the islands. Words really cannot describe the beauty. Every turn in the road leads to an even more spectacular view than the last. However by the time we reach the top, we are completely fogged in, which is not uncommon. Still it was an amazing drive and Mike has now seen almost the entire island in less than 48 hours.
 Waimea Canyon  Mustang Chris  Waterfall at Waimea Canyon
It’s only 3:00 at this point so we head to Poipu to Kalapaki Joe’s for their 3:00 – 6:00 happy hour and meet up with some couchsurfers from Oahu that are visiting Kauai for the weekend. 20 wings for $5 and $3 fish tacos – can’t beat that. The drinks are weak, but that’s probably a good thing since we are there for the entire three hours. And as a side note, if you are ever on the island and hear a commercial for Kalapaki Joe’s , that’s my friend Chris – he does radio commercials for that bar.
Mike and I make it a low key night since we were up at the crack of dawn thinking we were going to be ultragliding.
Sunday we don’t have firm plans but Chris texts me to say they have 2 seats available on an afternoon helicopter ride at Sunshine Helicopters where he works. So we decide to do that and have a great time. If you come to Kauai, you really need to take a helicopter ride – it’s really a great way to see parts of the island that you would otherwise not see. And the waterfalls were spectacular because of the all of the recent rain. Darth makes more friends – the passengers and helicopter pilot all love him.
 
Mike and I head back to Kalapaki Joe’s for a quick drink before picking up Chris and a new couchsurfer to the island, Michelle, and we head to Kapa’a to meet up with Laura, Daniel, and Jenni for dinner. Again, the drinks are weak, the service a little lacking, but we still have a great time.
Next up…week 3…our brush with death.
So as I mentioned in my previous post, I am hanging in Kauai for the month of May. I arrived on Monday, May 2 to beautiful weather – ahhh yes, this is exactly why I came here – sun, warmth, ocean breezes – life is good.
I am renting a house in Kapa’a – a small artsy town about 10 miles north of the Lihue airport. The town is quaint – small, but with several good restaurants/coffee shops, and there is a lovely paved 5 mile beach-front path right outside my door.
My first day consist of getting settled into the house, which I love. It’s bigger than I need, but I have a friend visiting later in the month, so it actually is perfect. I stroll around town and found Java Kai, a fantastic coffee shop, and Mermaids Cafe, a hole in the wall restaurant next door to Java Kai, that serves fresh ahi wraps, tacos, salads, etc. I will be spending a lot of time at both places during my month stay here.
On Tuesday, I start my new work schedule – 5:30 a.m. local, which is 8:30 a.m. pacific. I’m typically not a morning person, but I don’t mind getting up so early here. I can see the sunrise from my lanai, plus the roosters provide me the wakeup call I need each morning.
Chris, a local Kauai couchsurfer has arranged for a CS cookout on Tuesday evening at a beach near my house. About 10 couchsurfers show up, some locals, some travelers, and we have a great time. There is an amazing spirit in Kauai – and it spreads among the people here. I look forward to getting to know the CS’ers here during my stay.
Wednesday, I hit the weekly farmer’s market in Kapa’a. Most locals consider it the best farmer’s market on the island and I can see why. About 50 vendors, all with locally grown fruits, vegetables, and flowers. I load up on mango, apple bananas, Hawaiian sweet potatoes (which are purple, not orange), Hawaiian sweet corn, and asparagus. I grill the vegetables that night – absolutely delicious! And Darth indulges in some coconut milk.
Thursday the weather takes a major turn for the worse, and the torrential downpours start. Now, it rains everyday on Kauai – it is one of the wettest spots on earth, but typically it pours for 30 minutes and then clears up. Not this week – it pours, and pours some more, and pours even more. And beacause it’s so wet, it actually makes it feel a little cold here. So much for that sun and warmth that greeted me on Monday.
Friday I pick up a rental car for the weekend – I am trying to only rent a car on the weekends as most necessities are within walking distance and I don’t think I’ll need a car when I am working. Somehow I manage to arrange my pickup between more downpours. I take a drive down to Poipu – the sunnier part of the island. There is intermittent rain, but I manage to make the best of yet. I pick up Chris in Lihui later on in the day and we head to the annual St. Catherine’s fundraising carnival in Kapa’a. There are games, food, music, and silent auctions – and the highlight of the night – pie throwing. I witnessed the mayor of Kauai getting several whip cream pies in the face – all in the good spirit of fundraising. Chris insists we need to eat a flying saucer, which is like a manwich grilled between 2 pieces of bread – surprisingly delicious. And for dessert, we treat ourselves to some malasadas, a Portugese donut. Malasadas are quite popular on the island – as indicated by the long line for them at the carnival. Another downpour occurs, but once again, I am fortunate to have been under a tent and avoid getting soaked. Chris and I wrap up the night at Rob’s Good Times Grill where we have the best mango martini.
Saturday I arrange an in-home massage from another couchsurfer who is a professional massage therapist. After 4 days of driving from Chicago to California and then the flight to Kauai – I was in desperate need of a massage and Melanie delivered. It was a great massage and even greater to get to know Melanie. Chris and I then meet up and tour around Lihue for a bit before heading to Kapa’a for the monthly art walk festival that I suggested we attend. We grab dinner at Mermaids Cafe (where I have been eating lunch at almost every day) and run into Sam and Laura, 2 of the couchsurfers from the Tuesday night get-together. The island is like that – you will run into people you know frequently. Sam and Laura head to the carnival, and we head to the art walk – which sadly turns out to be one artist in front of a storefront. Gotta say – it should have been called the art blink, because if you blinked, you would miss it. We decide to head back to the carnival for the second night and listen to some great music and have another flying saucer and then later meet up with Daniel and Jenni – two other couchsurfers from Tuesday night – for drinks. More downpours occur throughout the night.
Sunday I take a drive up to Opaekaa Falls and then continue driving the road for miles – engrossed in the beauty that surrounds me. I drive all of the way to the end of the road – where there is a creek that could be crossed by vehicles in low water. But right now, the creek is flowing because of all of the rain. I turn around and head home but note the Kuilau Ridge Trail that I plan to hike when my friend Mike arrives. No sooner do I get back to the house, more downpours occur. I have been very lucky so far in that despite the torrential downpours, I have yet to actually be caught outside in one. Flood warnings are issues for the island. The rest of the day is spent working – which I don’t mind as I am just happy to be in Kauai.
A few other tidbits I have learned/noticed about Kauai:
- There are A LOT of churches. And I mean A LOT. Every few blocks there is another church. Every denomination is represented.
- Satellite radio does not work on this island. Yes, they have directtv, but if you get a car from a rental company, and it’s sattelite enabled, it will not work. Completely baffles me.
- The Japanse church two doors down bangs a light drum and plays a flute at 6:00 a.m. and 6:00 p.m. every night. I look forward to it every night.
 
I arrived in Kauai on Monday, May 2 to beautiful sun and warmth. Ah yes, this is exactly what I needed. I am renting a house in Kapa’a for a month – I decided that if I was going to come to Kauai, I may as well make it worth my while. For those that don’t know, I have been to most of the Hawaiian islands (Oahu, Maui, Big Island, Kauai). Kauai is my favorite – it’s just got a chill atmosphere (speaking figuratively of course – it’s usually 80+ degrees), it’s stunningly beautiful, has amazing beaches and amazing hiking, and is not touristy. Here’s some other interesting facts that you may not know about Kauai:
- Mount Waiʻaleʻale on Kauai averages 460 inches of rainfall a year making it one of the wettest spots in the world. In the first 9 days of May this year, it received 39 inches of rain. It felt more like the entire 460 inches of rain.
- Kauai is home to Waimea Canyon State Park – basically the Grand Canyon of the Pacific. Many scenes from Jurassic Park were filmed here.
- 90% of Kauai is only accessible via foot or air
- Hawaii does not observe daylight saving time
- Kauai does not have any local tv station – all of the TV news comes from Oahu, therefore the locals rely on the radio for local news and updates. This includes a woman that calls in everyday to report the weather from her house.
- Kauai has bad traffic – literally bumper to bumper at times – mainly because there is only one road that goes around most of the island. However, unlike Chicago, people in Kauai allow you, and even encourage you, to merge.
- Kauai has several one lane bridges – it’s customary to allow 7 – 8 cars pass from one side and then allow 7 – 8 cars pass on the other side. Sometimes you have to wait because each side is so polite they encourage the other side to go first.
- It is customary to not wear shoes in people’s houses. This is due to the red clay and sand that envelop the island and thus will envelop your home if you wear your shoes in the house.
- Chickens and roosters are prevalent on the island. Rumor has it that Hurricaine Iniki blew many chicken coops open and that resulted in the distribution and increase of chickens throughout the island.
- Electricity is ridiculously expensive here, so coffee shops and other places that have wifi will ask that you not plug in your device
- There is a large homeless/poverty issue on Kauai.
- A couple of popular foods in Hawaii – malasadas, a Portuguese donut that is very popular among the locals, and Li hinh mui powder, which is served in lieu of salt in margaritas and other drinks, as it is sweet, salty and sour. It also stains your clothes if you drip it on you.
 
Goodbyes are never easy and it seems like I have been saying a lot of them lately. The last two weeks have been a swirl of happy hours/dinners/breakfasts/storytelling events with friends – saying a final farewell. It’s bittersweet – sitting with friends having one last toast, one last laugh – knowing how much I will miss them all, and yet feeling so fortunate to have so many people in my life to miss. Yes, we will keep in touch – thank God for technology- but technology doesn’t convey the joy in someone’s eyes when they have good news to share with you, or the pain in someone’s soul when they have lost something or someone dear to them.
In the process of saying goodbye to friends, I have also had to say goodbye to a friendship. It was a complicated relationship – one that taught me a lot about myself, and to some extent is still teaching me. I’ve talked before about confluence – I believe people come into and out of our lives at certain times, for certain reasons. We’d all like to think that once someone enters our life, they will forever stay. But that’s not always how it’s meant to be. Sometimes you just have to let go.
My 72 year old mother is having surgery today. It’s her 62nd surgery (yes, you read that correctly assuming I have the number right – it’s hard to keep track). After the 40th surgery, I just always assume that she will pull through – she always does. But it occurred to me yesterday, perhaps being in a reflective mood, she may not pull through this one. I guess there’s always that risk. So when I talked to her last night to wish her well, I told her I love her – my way of saying goodbye…just in case.
Of all the goodbyes I have already said, none will have been as difficult as the goodbye I will be saying in a few hours. I will be leaving my ex’s house – saying goodbye to her and the kitty that have been my life for the last 13 years. Stacy is a wonderful, warm, brilliant, generous, good-hearted person. If you know her, you know what I am talking about – and if you have never met her, that’s unfortunate, because she is worth meeting. The three of us have built a lot of treasured memories over the years. We will always remain friends – she’s one of those people that I hope to forever have in my life – just in a different way. Saying goodbye to her will be saying goodbye to what we had.
Goodbyes are never easy…
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